In recent months, a bevy of in-salon keratin treatments—Brazilian Blowout, Cadiveu Brasil, Global Keratin, and Keratin Complex, to name a few—have come under fire in the United States and Canada. The offense: falsely advertising the de-frizzing products as formaldehyde-free when they contain over the maximum legal limit (typically about 0.1 percent).
For some industry insiders, the formaldehyde claims come as no surprise. "A small quantity of formaldehyde helps keep the hair smooth and straight. There is no product today that can say it straightens the hair without a chemical formula," said hair guru Julien Farel last summer, in the calm before the storm. "The formaldehyde content used to be 8 or 10 percent. Now it's about 0.4 percent. It's a lot less—there are no more fumes—but it's still present. There's always something to compensate; you just can't pretend that suddenly your hair is going to be completely chemical-free."
Certain consumers aren't fazed either, says celebrity colorist Lorri Goddard-Clark: "It's a matter of preference. One of my clients doesn't mind having a little formaldehyde. She'll say, `Hey, what's a little formaldehyde between friends?' But with all the press that's come out about it, we now know what a little formaldehyde between friends can do."
Fortunately, purists looking for formaldehyde-free options have hope: Several new professional treatments—John Paul Mitchell Systems Awapuhi Wild Ginger, Sam Brocato Smoothing 2.0, and Reallisse Vegan Hair Smoothing System—have positioned themselves as safe alternatives. More companies are following suit; Jonathan Product just announced it will launch an all-natural straightening process in July.
A new crop of at-home hair care items and styling tools also impart smooth strands minus the risk. Click here for the latest and greatest!
