Best Comeback: The Jewel-Tone Eye
The Look: The dramatic smoky eyes at Dior were a nod to the roaring '20s. "The look is rich and beautiful," says Pat McGrath, creative design director, P&G Beauty, who used shadow, liner, and mega lashes to create a spectrum of looks, more real-world-applicable (and seductive) than in seasons past.
Seen At: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Dior, Pucci, Zac Posen
DIY: Coat lids with a primer to prevent creasing. Next, using a black eyeliner pencil, "draw in around the eye, smudging it out with a brush to create smokiness," McGrath says. Follow with a bright shadow on the lid.
Pair With: Green Shadow
Make the classic look pop with green shadow. McGrath used a rich emerald at Dior, and at 3.1 Phillip Lim, makeup artist Lisa Butler blended jade shadows into a soft, smoked-out shape.
Get the Look
Dior 5-Colour Eyeshadow in Stylish Move; Tarte SmolderEyes Amazonian Clay Waterproof Liner in Smoldering Olive; Nars Trio Eyeshadow in Cap Ferrat
Most Playful: Statement Blush
The Look: Blush migrated north and south this season. Despite the mild temperature (and indoor setting) at Marc Jacobs' fall show, François Nars bestowed a "frostbitten" flush below the cheekbones, with blush reaching to the jawline. At Versace, McGrath swept rouge high on the temples, creating rosy, "painterly" profiles that were "fresh—like a supermodel."
Seen At: Calvin Klein, DKNY, Stella McCartney, Versace
DIY: For an everyday translation, focus color on the apples and cheekbones (above the jawline could be mistaken for an unfortunate rash), and stick to a pink hue—mauve or bronze shades aren't as "youthful," says McGrath.
Pair With: Nude Lips
Nude lips give an artful contrast to exaggerated blush and "keep the focus on the skin," McGrath says.
Get the Look
Stila Custom Color Blush in Self-Adjusting Coral; Dolce & Gabbana The Shine Lipstick in Luna; Estée Lauder Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Nude Velvet
Biggest Rebel: Spider Lashes
The Look: "This season is about completely chunky, cloggy lashes," McGrath says of the Faye Dunaway-inspired eyes she created at Gucci. "They're more interesting than a refined lady's lash."
Seen At: Alberta Ferretti, Chloé, Gucci, Lanvin, Valentino, Versace
DIY: "Really bat the brush into the lashes," McGrath says. Her model-tested technique? Two swipes of mascara, plus a final application concentrated just at the lash tips to give them a thick, spiky effect. Use a mini brush to coat the delicate lower lashes.
Pair With: Bold Brows
Bold brows will frame exaggerated lashes. McGrath, who traded in her ubiquitous brow bleach for brow pencils this season, recommends filling in arches with a pencil, then setting with a matching powder.
Get the Look
Covergirl NatureLuxe Mousse Mascara; Josie Maran Dual Ended Magic Brows Pen; Rimmel London Extra Wow Lash Mascara; Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara
Most Likeable: The Messy Bun
The Look: More Black Swan than Swan Lake, this fall's updo is "mussed up for texture and roughness to give an air of attitude and confidence," says Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals global creative director, who crafted the knots at Narciso Rodriguez.
Seen At: Alberta Ferretti, Chanel, Etro, Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez
DIY: Select a part (they were M.I.A. at Rodriguez, but stylist Sam McKnight drew deep side lines at Chanel) and gather hair into a low, side, or mid- pony, then fasten with an elastic. Spritz the length with salt spray to add grip, then knot or coil it around the elastic before securing with bobby pins.
Pair With: Sparkling Hair Clips
Bejeweled hair accessories, pinned directly onto the bun at Chanel, instantly make the laid-back look evening-appropriate.
Get the Look
Iradj Moini Citrine and Quartz Brooch; Van Cleef & Arpels Lotus Clip; Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray; Harry Winston Diamond Barrette
Most Laid-Back: Navy Nails
The Look: Jewel tones hit not only the lids this season, but also the fingertips. Retire the greige shades (finally!) and reach for deep indigo with shimmery flecks—fall's go-to dark polish.
Seen At: Cacherel, DKNY, Zac Posen
DIY: Since dark shades show wear and tear faster than a neutral tone, prep nails with a base coat. "It gives the polish something to adhere to so it won't chip as quickly," says Mike Potter, creator of Knock Out Cosmetics, who used the shade backstage at DKNY's New York show. Bonus: A base prevents the polish from staining the nail.
Pair With: Rounded Tips
"It's a dramatic color; you want a bit of length to feature the polish," Potter says. A groomed, round (never square) edge keeps mid-length nails looking neat.
Get the Look
OPI nail Lacquer in Russian Navy; Dior Vernis Nail Lacquer in Tuxedo; YSL La Laque Long Lasting Nail Lacquer in Moonlight Blue; Chanel Beauté Des Ongles Protective Base Coat
Most Dramatic: The Hitchcock Bouffant
The Look: Retrofitted texture and volume are staging a comeback. The French twists at Jean Paul Gaultier were inspired by Hitchcock's horror film The Birds, while Souleiman channeled a " '60s quirky housewife" with the half-up Amy Winehouse-meets-Brigitte Bardot bouffants at Peter Som.
Seen At: Alberta Ferretti, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Jean Paul Gaultier, Peter Som, Ruffian
DIY: Prep wet hair with a volumizing spray, then blow-dry. Back-comb (and comb and comb) at the crown for desired height, then coil into a French twist, securing with pins.
Pair With: A Side Part
This gives the look a "'60s feel, yet stylized," says Guido Palau, Redken creative consultant, who carved deep left parts at Alberta Ferretti.
Get the Look
TS-2 Cutting Comb; Fekkai Advanced Full Blown Volume Styling Whip; L'Oréal Paris Elnett Satin Extra Strong Hold hairspray; René Furterer Paris Naturia dry shampoo
Most Popular: Metallic Touches
The Look: Hits of gold, silver, and bronze gleaming on eyes, lips, and cheeks. "The look is magical, like you're in a fairy tale," says makeup artist Lucia Pica, who sprinkled gold glitter on lids and temples at Erin Fetherston.
Seen At: Derek Lam, Erin Fetherston, Fendi, Peter Som, Rodarte
DIY: Dab cream shadow onto the inner corner of eyes for a brightening effect, or pat an icy-hue powder over crimson lips. "The silver gives that metallic finish, and the red warms it up—more sensual and feminine, less RoboCop," says Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux, who created the lip at Peter Som.
Pair With: Matte Skin
Matte skin makes ethereal touches stand out. Combat unwanted shine with pressed powder and blotting papers.
Get the Look
CoverGirl SmokyShadow Blast in Onyx Smoke; Make Up For Ever Star Powder Diamond Collection in Diamond White; Belmacz Blitz Gold Leaf Eye Shadow; Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Mirifique; Estée Lauder Pure Color Sensuous Rouge LipColor in Orchid Surrender
Most Likely To Succeed: The Slick Ponytail
The Look: When the Marc Jacobs models marched out for the finale, their high ponytails swung in unison, making them look like an army of models-on-a-mission. "It's very pulled together, no mistakes," says Palau, who was inspired by dominatrices. S&M aside, iterations of ponytails were all over the catwalks.
Seen At: Alexander Wang, Balmain, Gucci, Marc Jacobs
DIY: Run a flat iron over sections of dry hair, then gather it all back into a taut, high ponytail and secure with elastic. Wrap a one-inch section from the ponytail around the band to hide it. Spritz shine spray and hairspray at the roots for a slick finish.
Pair With: Crimped Lengths
Looking to Anjelica Huston in the '70s, John Frieda global creative consultant Luigi Murenu combed out crimped, low ponytails for "soft, fluffy volume" at Gucci.
Get the Look
Hot Tools Professional Crimper Styling Iron; Mason Pearson Pocket Boar Bristle Hair Brush; John Frieda Frizz-Ease Thermal Protection hair serum; Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray
