Most Likely to Succeed: Red Lips
The Look: With a collection inspired by art and graffiti, Jason Wu wanted the models in his show to mimic his clothing: pretty with a bold hit of color. Makeup artist Diane Kendal answered the call with bright crimson lips intensified with a dusting of neon tangerine powder for a "pop art–like spark." In Paris, YSL's metallic red pouts were "classic yet modern," says Proctor & Gamble's global creative design director, Pat McGrath.
Seen At: Anna Sui, Dior, Jason Wu, John Paul Gaultier, Temperley London, YSL
DIY: There are basic guidelines to red: Blue-based crimsons flatter cool skin tones, while orange-red hues look best against warm skin tones. But most importantly, says McGrath, "Don't torture yourself over selecting a shade. I do 60 shows with one shade, and every model looks amazing." Start by carefully tracing lips with a matching liner to "contour and define," Kendal says, and apply the lipstick using a brush for precision.
Pair With
A brown smoky eye. "It adds refinement and elegance," McGrath says of the caramels and taupes she blended up to the models' brow bones at Dior.
Get the Look
Clé de Peau Beauté Eye Color Quad in Antique Gold; Givenchy Rouge Interdit Lipstick in Bucolic Poppy; Make Up Forever Rouge Natural Artist lipstick in Red; Estée Lauder Pure Color Five Color EyeShadow Palette in Topaz Mosaic
Most Attitude:
Winged Eyeliner
The Look: The late Elizabeth Taylor launched many a cat eye. At Ruffian, makeup artist James Kaliardos paid homage to Taylor's signature heavy-duty liner, while at Badgley Mischka, Estée Lauder's creative makeup director, Tom Pecheux, cited the actress's decadently deranged character in the '60s drama Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf? "The look is reminiscent of the black-and-white film, but with a touch of youth," he says.
Seen At: Antonio Marras, Badgley Mischka, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Frankie Morello, Giorgio Armani, Jonathan Saunders, Ruffian
DIY: For a soft, subtle line, select a kohl pencil and start at the inner corner of the eye, extending outward. A gel liner applied with an angled brush or a liquid formula can be layered to create a thicker, defined stroke.
Pair With
Metallic liner for a fresh twist. A pewter shade is less predictable than black and will reflect light for a brightening effect.
Get the Look
Lancôme LinerDesign in Trendy Grey; Maybelline New York Eye Studio Master Precise Liquid Ink Pen Eye Liner in Black; L'Oréal Paris Voluminous Smoldering Eyeliner in Black; Dolce & Gabbana Intense Khol Eye Crayon in True Black
Most Artistic:
French Twist
The Look: Last season's casual-cool bun has morphed into a refined French twist—with an edge. "It's still a little messy, a little punky," says Redken creative consultant Guido Palau, who twisted and pinned up lengths at Louis Vuitton.
Seen At: Diane von Furstenberg, Louis Vuitton, Narciso Rodriguez
DIY: "Product is key to creating the shape," Palau says. Comb mousse through damp hair and blow-dry. Next, apply a texturizing product for grip, then twist, securing with pins spritzed with the texturizer for hold.
Pair With
A headband "keeps the look playful," Palau says, "and holds the shape."
Get the Look
Jennifer Behr Tiny Monochrome Encrusted Crystal Headband in Gold and Flame; Redken Powder Grip 03 Mattifying Hair Powder; Pureology Colour Stylist Root Lift
Cutest Couple: Matching Nails & Lips
The Look: The chic new twinset—coordinating lipstick and polish—"is ultrafeminine," says manicurist Deborah Lippmann, who painted tips to match lips at Donna Karan.
Seen At: Dior, Donna Karan, Jason Wu, John Paul Gaultier, Loewe
DIY: A quick-dry top coat or three-in-one formula (base coat, polish, top coat) will make polish changes as swift as lipstick touch-ups.
Pair With
Maroon lipstick and polish. A departure from springtime brights and pastels, "the shade is strong and sexy," Lippmann says.
Get the Look
Deborah Lippmann polish in Just Walk Away Renée; Sally Hansen Diamond Flash Fast Dry Top Coat; YSL Rouge Volupté Perle Lipstick in Iridescent Burgundy; Essie polish in Macks.
Class Favorite: No-Volume Hair
The Look: Gravity-defying hair was MIA as flat (yes, flat) styles ruled the runway. "It's sexy but nonchalant," Palau says. "Volume looks older, stuffy. This season is about young, cool hair."
Seen At: Alberta Ferretti, Derek Lam, Loewe, Prada, Stella McCartney
DIY: Comb a serum into wet strands to prevent frizz, and blow-dry with a paddle brush. A few passes with a straightening iron will smooth the cuticle, helping it lie flat. Finishing drops of hair oil seal the sleek look.
Pair With
A middle-parted ponytail is as easy as it is chic.
Get the Look
Aveda Wooden Paddle Brush; Rodin Olio Lusso Rodin by Recine Luxury Hair Oil; Nexxus Frizz Defy Frizz Protection Leave-in Oil Shine Treatment; ghd one-inch Red Plated Gold Series Professional Styler
Life of the Party: Textured Waves
The Look: Like curls that fall after a night of dancing, this season's wave is "playful, sassy, and sexy," says stylist Odile Gilbert, who created iterations of the look at Adam and Jill Stuart.
Seen At: Adam, Alexis Mabille, DSquared2, Giles, Givenchy, Jill Stuart, J. Mendel, Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel, Theyskens' Theory
DIY: Work a curl-enhancing product into wet hair and blow-dry with a diffuser, scrunching to encourage texture. If you've got naturally poker-straight strands (or want to add definition to waves), loosely wrap two-inch sections around a curling rod and lightly mist with hairspray to hold.
Pair With
A '40s-inspired sweep. Cut a deep side part, then draw the front section of hair low across the forehead, twist, and secure with a pin for an "innocent, youthful look," Gilbert says.
Get the Look
Sedu Revolution Clipless Curling Iron; Frédéric Fekkai Perfectly Luscious Curls Curl Shaper Cream; John Frieda Frizz-Ease Curl-Defining Spray Gel; L'Oréal Paris EverStyle Alcohol-Free Curl Activating Mouss e
Most Natural:
High-Def Skin
The Look: In a season dominated by power-pretty pastel clothes, equally feminine perfected complexions reigned supreme backstage. "The focus is on the skin. It's about ultrapretty, doll-like innocence," says McGrath.
Seen At: Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Valentino
DIY: Follow McGrath's perfect-skin protocol: a layer of moisturizer, then allover foundation. Next, a concealer to camouflage blemishes, followed with "highlighter on the brow bone, a little bit on the cheekbones, and white eyeliner on the inside corner of eyes," McGrath says. Finish with mattifying powder on the T-zone.
Pair With
Power lashes. "Fresh skin with thick, full lashes is very Sophia Loren," McGrath says. "Absolutely stunning."
Get the Look
Chanel Poudre Universelle Compacte; By Terry Cover-Expert foundation; Nars Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer; CoverGirl LashBlast 24HR Mascara in Very Black
Attention to Detail
Another runway show, another polish change. Here, from light to dark, our fave shades that models rocked during New York Fashion Week
Alexander Wang: Sally Hansen Parchment; DKNY: Essie Brooch the Subject; Milly: CND Electric Orange; Jason Wu: OPI MonSooner or Later; Yigal Azrouel: Butter London La Moss; Rodarte: Deborah Lippmann Lady Sings the Blues
